Egypt

Pictures:

1) New hospital training site with technicians and Dr. Amin (middle, host)

2) Nile River runs through the heart of downtown Cairo

3) Mosque of Sayyida Nafeesa and grave (grand daughter of Imam Ali, fourth Rule after the death of Prophet Muhammad PBUH).

4) The market neighboring the mosque

5) Taxi, this car is a Italian fiat from the early 70's and still runs they just keep on fixing it (very efficient). The radio, meter, speedometer, gas odometer all do not work. Most taxis are are in similar condition.

Also an Egyptian Dialect Survival Guide. Egyptians are famous in the Middle East for their slang. To me it seems the language revolves around 10 words, which you constantly hear;

1) Zuyyak - How are you for a man or Zuyyik for a woman.

2) Aawy - many or plentiful

3) Hadhrathak (Man) or Hadhrathik (woman) - Sir or Mam

4) Kidha - like this

5) Niharda - today

6) 'aaiz - like or want

7) Khelly baalak and Khelly Welli - watch out of be careful and 'anything goes' or 'it's all good'

8) Khush or wush - you here this alot in the streets 'take it ' or 'go' wush is in front of you

9) efendim or pasha - both turkish meaning sir

10) b'uulak (man) and b'uulik (woman) - I say to you or am telling you
There are many more remember these few.

Upon a traveler's initial trip to Egypt one should be prepared for some coughing, runny nose and possible diarrhea (if your not careful what you eat). Amidst the congestion and driving as if one were in a Nintendo Game in the Cairo Module, the rich culture/history environment on every corner/street of Cairo is another chapter in the endless historical volume of the city. Egypt has witnessed the amalgamation of civilizations; ancient Egyptians, Greeks (more evident in Alexandria), the Islamic dynasties of the Khulafa Rashideen (Four rightly guided rulers after the death of Prophet Muhammad PBUH), Umayyad, Abbasid, Mamluks, Fatemids (Shia Dynasty), Ottoman empires and later on brief periods of colonization by the English and French all of the remnants of which can be observed. One of the pleasant sights to observe was the "Mujamaa' al-dyan" or congregation of the religions (Monotheistic) where one can observe a Coptic Church, Masjid (Mosque) and Synagogue within the same square. Coptic Christians make up 10% of the population, Egyptian Jews a small percent and the remainder Muslim population. During the Abbasid and subsequent Ottoman Empire there was actually a substantial percentage of non-muslim population and were granted rights to their independent judicial systems in many cases.

The most notable and well known interpretor of the Torah and Doctor, Rabbi Ibn Maymoun (in arabic), resided in Muslim Spain where there existed a diverse non-muslim population. Muslim Spain or Andalus and later the Ottoman Empire was a refuge for many Jewish minorities who came to be known as Sephardic Jews tracing there ancestral lands to Muslims societies. It is also well known Sephardic Jews produced and flourished what many Jewish scholars recognize as the golden age of Jewish poetry, culture and arts in contrast to the Ashkenazi Jews (those who trace their ancestor lands to Europe/Russia) who were mainly businessmen and financing. Rabbi Ibn Maymoun was well respected in Andalus and Misr (Egypt) where he later resided during the end of his lifetime. The learning centers of Andalus and Egypt (Al-Azhar) brought students flocking from Europe and was grounds for the enlightenment. Scholars from all walks of life such as Ibn Maymoun were allowed to discuss and exchange ideas, an objective atmosphere for learning existed. Jewish, Christian and Muslim dialogues were held at learning centers and independent court systems actually did exist for abrief time for Jewish and Christian inhabitants. Ibn Maymoun wrote Hebrew but in Arabic letters, later on while residing in Egypt he was or his sons were chosen by Salauudin Ayubi to be official doctors and ministers in the empire.

In another chapter both faiths have been hijacked, Judaism by Zionism actually a secular nationalistic ideology formed in the later part of 19th century, which has nothing to do with the tenets by Judaism, while Islam has been hijacked by nationalism and a puritanical offshoot of Wahabbism. Abdul Wahaab who many attribute to the Wahabbi Movement in Saudi Arabia (end of 18th century) himself was a moderate individual who sought to rid some gross behavior in worship and societal ills occurring during his time. His sanad or chain of teachers even has many sufi scholars, who in contrary to the current ideology in the region were quite a norm in traditional Islamic learning. The offshoot of Wahabbism created a strict puritanical, literal textual understanding, non-objective and almost mind locking ideology. Extreme remnants of which remind one of early Jewish Law of the Talmud amongst Jewish Rabbis (supplement to the Torah or explanation of early Rabbis), rule based ideology without any room for interpretation of principles or objectivity and the ideology of a 'chosen people'.

Well back to Egypt, unfortunately due to business was unable to visit most sights in the city beside Al-Azhar University, one of the oldest Islamic Universities and Jamia Nafeesa (the Grave and Mosque of Sayyidna Nafeesa the grand daughter of Imam Ali, the fourth Caliph of Islam after the death of Prophet Muhammad PBUH). The grave is situated outside the mosque as according to Islamic Tradition only the graves of Prophets may reside within or beneath the roof of the mosque itself.

Outside the mosque there is a hustling and bustling Souk (market), Quran recitation by Abdul Basit one of the most well known Quran Reciters, echoes through the narrow pathways. We stopped at an old restaurant and had some typical Egyptian Cuisine, which really is a delightful experience. Strolling through the market, an array of colorful hijabs (veils) are displayed, the hijab (veil) is observed by many of the young generation by choice without societal/governmental pressure. The colorful experience is a nice break from gulf countries where black abayas and hijabs dominate. Perhaps some of the phenomenon can be attributed to 'reaction' or 'political or self identity' but only God knows what is in the hearts of the believers. In the labs we visited young lab technicians and lady doctors observed the hijab (picture above). Many of the women hold high positions as when I met Dr. Somaia a Microbiology Professor, Head of the TB research lab in Cairo and observes Hijab, she even had a Quran on her office desk as well. It breaks many myths, stereotypes, communication barriers were non-existent and natural between the sexes.
Egypt has been the hub and Mecca (center) of thought the past century in the region, the greatest thinkers and movements have centered here, Ahmed Shoki, Naghib Mahfouz, Hassan al-Bannah, Sayyid Qutb are just a few of the intellectuals. Imam Jalal al-din Suyuti and Imam Shafi were some of the greatest scholars to live in the region. The grave of Imam Shafi is located in Cairo, next time will have to visit it and read 'Fathiha'. Egypt has the immense potential for growth and sustainable economy in the region. The populace is hard working, educated, tourism and natural resources are available. One can see why the United States have been supporting Hosni Mubarak (President of Egypt) with strong financial support for nearly 20 years, to quell the true indigenous democracy and growth that would flourish in the region. Also there is the prospect of the Muslim Brotherhood (Ikhwan al-Muslimeen) gaining many seats in parliament if an open/fair election were held. The Ikhwan are quite active in social work, assisting the needy, housing, healthcare and education. Opponents may deem it as a 'political ticket' or stress the extreme minority within the Ikhwan (probably created from the regime's early brutal torture of Ikhwanis reaction but nevertheless do exist), nevertheless the mainstream of the movement is peaceful, productive and enjoys by in large a moderate political stance.
Casual conversations with locals at the coffee shops, markets and taxi drivers all echo the same tone of corruption and money laundering by government officials. The lower class live a difficult life in Egypt from street work to selling flowers or anything on the street, sometimes it was unbearable watching ladies standing in the heat of the sun waiting to find parking for commuters for a mere few gunnaih (egyptian pounds). May Allah make it easy for them.
One really needs to plan your trip to Egypt, Alexandria, Luxor and other areas deserve visits to really absorb the history, civilization and nature in the region, Inshallah will visit with my wife and newborn baby!

Oman

Here are a few pictures from the country of Oman.

1) Downtown Muscat, roundabouts are beautified by artistic designs.

2) This donkey had a limp leg and barely made it across the street.

3) Can't drive through the desert without seeing camels!

4) The downtown seashore view

5) Downtown Old Muscat



Surprisingly, this nation once had a vast empire that covered Dar al-salaam or present day Tanzania, Kenya, coastal territory around Iran/Pakistan and some other African Nations along the coast. Hence, you will find a very pluralistic and multi-cultural society, ranging from 1st-5th generation Africans, 2nd-4th generation Baluchis from Iran and Pakistan to the locals. Swahili, Urdu and the Native Arabic are the main languages spoken. Also came to know of Ibadi Muslims, here is a link for more information.
Ibadi Islam Here is a bit more historical information of Oman from Wikipedia.

Islam had reached Oman within Muhammad's lifetime. By the middle of the eighth century AD, Omanis were practicing a unique brand of the faith, Ibadhism, which remains a majority sect only in Oman. Ibadhism has been characterized as "moderate conservatism," with tenets that are a mixture of both austerity and tolerance.

The Portuguese occupied Muscat for a 140-year period (1508–1648), arriving a decade after Vasco da Gama discovered the seaway to India. In need of an outpost to protect their sea lanes, the Europeans built up and fortified the city, where remnants of their colonial architectural style still remain.

The Ottomans drove out the Portuguese, but were pushed out themselves about a century later (1741) by the leader of a Yemeni tribe, who began the current line of ruling sultans. After one last, brief invasion a few years later by Persia, Oman was free for good of foreign-occupying powers.


Map of Oman Isolated from their Arab neighbors by the desert, the Omanis became an economic power in the early 1800s, largely by using their position on the Indian Ocean and seafaring knowledge gained from the Portuguese to gain access to foreign lands. They took control of the coasts of present-day Iran and Pakistan, colonized Zanzibar and Kenyan seaports, brought back enslaved Africans, and sent boats trading as far as the Malay Peninsula.

At this time, the country became known as Muscat and Oman*, denoting two centers of power, not just the capital and the interior but also the sultan and the imam, the Ibadhist spiritual leader.

The British slowly brought about a collapse of Muscat and Oman's "empire" by the end of the nineteenth century without use of force. Through gradual encroachment on its overseas holdings economically and politically, they caused Oman to retreat to its homeland. In time Britain held such sway in Muscat and Oman itself that it became in effect, and later in fact, a British protectorate.

Having control of the country's military, the British helped subdue rebel tribesmen in the 1950s, driving most into Yemen. But the sultan ran a repressive regime, with laws forbidding numerous activities, including the building and even repair of his subjects' own homes without permission. In 1970, almost certainly with British backing, he was overthrown by his son, the present ruler, Qaboos bin Said Al Said, and the country declared independence the following year as the Sultanate of Oman.

Qaboos is generally regarded as a benevolent absolute ruler, who has improved the country economically and socially. Oman has maintained peaceful ties on the Arabian Peninsula ever since ending another tribal rebellion in the southwest in 1982 by forging a treaty with Yemen. Oman's oil revenue has been consistently invested in the national infrastructure, particularly roads, schools, hospitals, and utilities. More then ever, the country is poised to take advantage of its strategic trade location on the Indian Ocean and the Persian Gulf to further its economic growth and role in the world.

It seems as though few Ibadis actually know their beliefs and the Hanafi (Predominant Islamic School of Thought) and other Islamic School of thoughts cooperate find as everyone observes salat (prayer) together and the remainder of pillars (Ramadan, Hajj, Zakat, etc.) are all observed. Allahu-Alim (God Knows Best).

Muscat, the capital of Oman is definitely a place to visit and a secret tourist destination in the Middle East. With it's clear beaches, clean streets, beautiful landscape and low-rise buildings it is a peaceful destination and not to mention the hospitality and kindness of the locals.

Madinah, Hijaz (Saudi Arabia)

Flocking from around the world for the sole purpose of visiting the grave and Masjid of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH). The spectacle of awe and act of saying 'Asslamalaikum' to the Prophet, one can not describe in words. However, one has to be careful not to be overcome by intoxication or in a state euphoria as if on Marijuana or some other drug Having some basic knowledge of the Seerah (Life of the Prophet) and situation (poltical, economical and social) conditions in Madinah during the era of the Prophet, allows one to more appreciate the struggles and hardships of how life was in the barren desert. As a simple walk from the Masjid to the neighboring Souk (Market), one profusely sweats from the unbearable heat and imagines the hardships the companions of the Prophet faced. Traditional clothing, the long thawb (shoulder to feet robe) and imamah (turban protection of the head from the sun) facilitated an easier life in the desert.




The current structure of the mosque is but an ayoda of it's original size, recent construction and additions have allowed to accomodate more pilgrims. The city of Madinah spans a large area would estimate at least 25-30 sqare kilometers there are many other sites like the Masjid al-Qiblatain (the mosque where there are two qiblah signifying the change in the direction of the Qiblah from Jerusalem to Makkah) and Jabl al-Uhud (Mountain of uhud). About a 15 minute walking distance from the Masjid there is a an old train station, erected by the Ottoman Empire. This train (now obsolete) amazingly ran from Madinah (it might have gone through Makkah as well) through Syria and ended in Istanbul. Quite an achievement by the Ottoman Empire and just illustrates some aspects of advancement towards the decline of the Ottoman Empire, which the locals and other historians fail to acknowledge. Suffice to say the British and other forces did not want to see such a connection and advancement in the region and sponsored the King Saud Family to rule the region and adopt a puritanical form of Islam so as to quell the people.

Above is a picture of the mosque and my host and colleague (Palestinian raised in Algeria and Saudi for most of his life). Pictures inside the mosque I heard were forbidden therefore did not make any attempt to be a security problem for the religious police.

Coming back from Madinah we stopped back in Jeddah, a city on the shore of the Red Sea. Surprisingly, there are many poor and unfortunate in Jeddah mainly due to the influx of Hajj Pilgrims who remain in the city. Jeddah is more open than other Saudi Cities, strolling through a mall women could be seen bowling and playing pool side by side in the same area with family and men nearby. Surprisingly my colleague always told me to leave my laptop in the trunk as stealing is a common occurrence. As we drove through the city I was discussing with our colleague the current state of Saudi and was perplexed as to why simple civilized behavior (Driving, forming straight lines, littering) could not be observed and why these simple issues could not be brought up in Khutbas (Friday Sermons), these are not just basic religious obligation (respect for others and environment) but basic human ettiquettes? The treatment of maids and workers in the Kingdom is abhorring, mistreatment ranges from; note being paid,physical abuse (in all sorts of forms) and mental abuse, which could be the worse of all (if you walk through a mall you will almost never see a maid/housekeeper smiling). But I guess there are more important issues for the Kingdom and Religious Authority like wearing black instead of colorful niqaabs/abayas/hijabs (face veil/cloak/head covering), although do not see the difference as one can not see you either way? Also if one observes historically pictures of Saudi before the Kingdom one will see an arrange of colorful abayas and dresses. One can understand why Karl Marx said, "Religion is the Opium (Drug) of the Masses", the Kingdom has adopted a trivial understanding of religious issues based on a puritanical and literal meaning, which has reduced religion to trivial personal actions. Basic issues of social justice and civilized behavior seem to have no place in religious dialogue. Interestingly enough, Viagra and many other drugs like it are the number #1 selling drug in the Kingdom. A recent article in BBC a study that was actually conducted by the Kingdom (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/6592123.stm), illustrates up to 70% of files exchanged between Saudi teenagers' mobile phones contain pornography. Rather than sexual desire being quelled by religious doctrine (segregation, exposure) it has seemed to had the opposite effect. If one visits Oman, a neighboring country to Saudi one can still observe conservative attire but a society where interaction between men and women is more natural. I think it just illustrates a balance is needed in society, a women's voice must be heard, I recalled on our previous visit to Saudi at a conference in which women were in the same room. Our main speaker (Pakistani) remarked how the women were more keen and asking more questions and our German Colleague had the same remark when visiting Hospital Labs.

These general observations on Saudi are only my opinion (that's why we have blogs/journals) and not to generalize or denograte Saudi People as have met many hospitable and educated Saudis that have had positive impact on rephrensible/weaknesses in my character. If one visits Madinah and Makkah one should definitely read some simple basic Seerah (Life of the Prophet) to better appreciate the spiritual journey.

Don't Look to Iran for Academic Censorship, In the heart of the Midwest Depaul University

While the US claims academic censorship in Iran is a threat to democracy, let's visit the good all midwest and Depaul University. Norm Finkelstein a prolific political science writer and an objective eye on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict was denied a tenure professorship at Depaul University. Author of the "Holocaust Industry" and many other objective works, Finkelstein himself a Jew and parents true Holocaust Jew survivers, writes of the industry behind the Holocaust and his parents vain efforts to receive reparations. Later he authored "Chutzpah", a counter to Alan Dershowitz's plagarism in "The Case for Israel". So now our academic criteria are set by Israel? What was interesting is his colleagues within the department sought him fit for the position, hence academic credibility and objectivity within the field was not of question but higher authorities seemed it not politically/financially beneficial for the University. Let us show our support for academic freedom rather than suffer the consquences of our next generation being prey to indoctrination.

http://normanfinkelstein.wordpress.com/

http://www.wbbm780.com/pages/564349.php?contentType=4&contentId=595128

Gettin' down Yemen Style

A traditional Yemeni wedding when we were in Yemen several months ago. Could not make out the lyrics in arabic as the vocals were very deep. If anybody can translate the lyrics please do so in the comments section (hint, hint, wife!)

Saudi Arabia

Recently, came back from a one week trip to Saudia Arabia. We first entered the eastern city of Dammam then went to Riyadh (in central Saudi Arabia). On our previous to Saudi Arabia we were in the western shore city of Jeddah and by the grace of Allah was able to travel to Makkah (with some wonderful locals) to perform Umrah (a lesser version of Hajj the obligatory pilgrimmage to Makkah for all Muslims if they can afford it and are in good health). There is a contrast in the three cities, Dammam and Jeddah seem to be more open with diverse culture and thought, whereas Riyadh seemed to be more closed, even at some stores the line for women and men are separated (by a mere ribbon). However, when we visited lab workers in various hospitals the atmosphere was mixed and the employees seemed to be more comfortable (natural) as life outside the work environment does not seem to be natural. In contrast a city like Muscat in Oman where women observe the Hijab (veil for the hair not face) and abaaya (full body cloth) or long skirts, the women were very open and natural with men and strangers.

Pictures; Jeddah along the Beach, Co-employee (originally Palestinian but raised in Saudi,, wonderful guy and a great host) and view of Riyadh from office

When I get the chance will post some pictures the beautiful city (in all facets of life, people, cleanliness and nature) of Muscat (Oman) which is the secret vacation spot in the Middle East.

Islam and Cultural Exchange

Traveling the middle east can be exciting and yet frustrating, let's say a double edged sword. The readings and remnants of a great culture, empire and legacy have been fragmented into artificial boundaries that run within the very veins of society at times. No doubt there are great people as with every nation and I myself have many weaknesses also but simply the mention of other countries or other groups (ethnically, religious) can spark immediate negative reaction (not agressive or violent) even religion is nationalized. Sometimes traveling you get the feeling Karl Marx was correct when he said, "Religion is the Opium of the Masses", perhaps he was relating to the state of church vs. renaissance (state) fierce discussions taking place during his time. Perhaps all societies have this inate response or subconcious for a nation or people (whether defined as race, tribe, etc.) and at times this unity or response is necessary as elaborated by Ibn Khaldun in his Muqaddamah, one of the earliest and pioneering works in sociology.

Returning back to the cultural imperative, there is no ignoring the formation of nation states with the simultaneous transformation from agrarian (agricultural) to industrial/technological societies has shaped and engraved our mentality (Read Structure and Change in Economic History by Douglass C. North) For the current generation to flourish our mentality must be in line with classical age and mentality and utilize what means (technological, etc.) for the advancement of this purpose.

The view of the ummah as only a group of people adhering to a specific creed (in the specific sense not general) limited to certain geographical location (Muslim Lands) must be transformed into a global vision with no boundaries. This view is in sharp contrast from the the early generations and great historians/scholars of Islam who contributed to humanity (Ibn Khaldun, Tabari, Ibn Kathir) and Prophet Muhammad (SAW). According to a tradition in the Musnad of Imam Ahmad a person asked the Prophet (SAW), "Oh Messenger of Allah, How many messengers were there, the Prophet (SAW) replied, 124,000 Prophets and from them 315 Messengers."
قال قلت يا رسول الله كم وفى عدة الأنبياء قال مائة ألف وأربعة وعشرون ألفا الرسل من ذلك ثلاث مائة وخمسة عشر جما غفيرا

Although the name of the Prophets are not mentioned and only 25 are mentioned in the Quran it is not inconceivable that certain philosophers or great sages may have been influenced to some extent or been exposed to revelation of a Prophet. When the Prophet Muhammad (SAW) was exhorting the companions to constantly be concerned of the Ummah was it only in relation to the few thousand and later on over 100,000 companions (at the end of his lifetime) or to entire mankind. I would strongly go for the later as the entire humanity is one ummah beginning from Prophet Adam and Prophet Muhammad (SAW) vision was of entire mankind as an Ummah.

When we read the titles and skim through the works of great Muslim Historians, Ibn Kathir, Tabari and Ibn Khaldun we notice the span of the history covered was from the time of Adam to their respective periods. Tabari author of tarikhal-ummum wa al-maluk, History of nations and Kings, discussed all civilizations from the time of Adam to his respective era. Similar works of Ibn Kathir (nihaya wa bidaya), Ibn Khaldun (Muqaddamah) and the great historian Masoodi document the chronicles history and the achievements/advancement of entire civilizations. It was clear Classical Muslim historians understood the concept of Ummah and reminded previous nations of the fitrah (natural) belief in the Prophets sent down to mankind. Masoodi writes the Persian Empire had established a very organized and systematic administration and Muslims, who did not conquer in the sense totally destroy the Persian Empire, rather utilized the Persian Adminstration System, hence early Muslims grasped the mentality that all nations were sent Prophets and utilized knowledge that may benefit mankind and were not the "Chosen People". Similarly, Muslim Civilizations in Spain and Baghdad (The house of hikmah during the Abbasid Caliphate) was not religiocentric Muslim Adnvancement but an amalgation of knowledge from China (gunpowder and printing) to Greece (Mathematics, Medicine, etc.) Classical Muslim civilization encompassed the very essence and greatness of history from the time of Adam to their respective periods.

Ibn Khaldun in his pioneering work in sociology 'al-muqaddamah' gives an objective view of civilizations existing from the beginning of mankind and Ibn Kathir devotes the same in his works (Nihaya wa Bidayah).

In another tradition upon related to the Isra and Miraj (the Night Journey),

Abu Hurayra said: Allah's Messenger said:

My Lord has preferred me over everyone else (faddalani rabbi):He has sent me as a mercy to the worlds and to all people without exception, a bearer of glad tidings and a warner; He has thrown terror into the hearts of my enemies at a distance of a month's travel; He has made spoils of war lawful for me while they were not lawful for anyone before me; the entire earth has been made a ritually pure place of prostration for me; I was given the words that open, those that close, and those that are comprehensive in meaning (i.e. I was given the apex of eloquence); My Community was shown to me and there is none of the followers and the followed but he is known to me; I saw that they would come to a people that wear hair-covered sandals; I saw that they would come to a people of large faces and small eyes as if they had been pierced with a needle; nothing of what they would face in the future has been kept hidden from me; and I have been ordered to perform fifty prayers daily.

The words in bold state the Prophet (SAW) regarded the entire earth as 'sujood' (a prostrating place) and not limited to any artificial boundaries. The formation of modern industrialized, technological and classical liberal transformation are subjects that deserve due attention and require much researh. Thus with this inagural blog please read the following article and pamphlet, which Dr. Umar Farooq has researched extensively in this field and a short pamphlet compiled by some concerned muslims regarding our role as Muslim Americans.

http://nawawi.org/downloads/article3.pdf

http://salika.wordpress.com/2007/05/22/what-does-it-mean-to-be-muslim-american/