Flocking from around the world for the sole purpose of visiting the grave and Masjid of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH). The spectacle of awe and act of saying 'Asslamalaikum' to the Prophet, one can not describe in words. However, one has to be careful not to be overcome by intoxication or in a state euphoria as if on Marijuana or some other drug Having some basic knowledge of the Seerah (Life of the Prophet) and situation (poltical, economical and social) conditions in Madinah during the era of the Prophet, allows one to more appreciate the struggles and hardships of how life was in the barren desert. As a simple walk from the Masjid to the neighboring Souk (Market), one profusely sweats from the unbearable heat and imagines the hardships the companions of the Prophet faced. Traditional clothing, the long thawb (shoulder to feet robe) and imamah (turban protection of the head from the sun) facilitated an easier life in the desert.
The current structure of the mosque is but an ayoda of it's original size, recent construction and additions have allowed to accomodate more pilgrims. The city of Madinah spans a large area would estimate at least 25-30 sqare kilometers there are many other sites like the Masjid al-Qiblatain (the mosque where there are two qiblah signifying the change in the direction of the Qiblah from Jerusalem to Makkah) and Jabl al-Uhud (Mountain of uhud). About a 15 minute walking distance from the Masjid there is a an old train station, erected by the Ottoman Empire. This train (now obsolete) amazingly ran from Madinah (it might have gone through Makkah as well) through Syria and ended in Istanbul. Quite an achievement by the Ottoman Empire and just illustrates some aspects of advancement towards the decline of the Ottoman Empire, which the locals and other historians fail to acknowledge. Suffice to say the British and other forces did not want to see such a connection and advancement in the region and sponsored the King Saud Family to rule the region and adopt a puritanical form of Islam so as to quell the people.
Above is a picture of the mosque and my host and colleague (Palestinian raised in Algeria and Saudi for most of his life). Pictures inside the mosque I heard were forbidden therefore did not make any attempt to be a security problem for the religious police.
Coming back from Madinah we stopped back in Jeddah, a city on the shore of the Red Sea. Surprisingly, there are many poor and unfortunate in Jeddah mainly due to the influx of Hajj Pilgrims who remain in the city. Jeddah is more open than other Saudi Cities, strolling through a mall women could be seen bowling and playing pool side by side in the same area with family and men nearby. Surprisingly my colleague always told me to leave my laptop in the trunk as stealing is a common occurrence. As we drove through the city I was discussing with our colleague the current state of Saudi and was perplexed as to why simple civilized behavior (Driving, forming straight lines, littering) could not be observed and why these simple issues could not be brought up in Khutbas (Friday Sermons), these are not just basic religious obligation (respect for others and environment) but basic human ettiquettes? The treatment of maids and workers in the Kingdom is abhorring, mistreatment ranges from; note being paid,physical abuse (in all sorts of forms) and mental abuse, which could be the worse of all (if you walk through a mall you will almost never see a maid/housekeeper smiling). But I guess there are more important issues for the Kingdom and Religious Authority like wearing black instead of colorful niqaabs/abayas/hijabs (face veil/cloak/head covering), although do not see the difference as one can not see you either way? Also if one observes historically pictures of Saudi before the Kingdom one will see an arrange of colorful abayas and dresses. One can understand why Karl Marx said, "Religion is the Opium (Drug) of the Masses", the Kingdom has adopted a trivial understanding of religious issues based on a puritanical and literal meaning, which has reduced religion to trivial personal actions. Basic issues of social justice and civilized behavior seem to have no place in religious dialogue. Interestingly enough, Viagra and many other drugs like it are the number #1 selling drug in the Kingdom. A recent article in BBC a study that was actually conducted by the Kingdom (http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/6592123.stm), illustrates up to 70% of files exchanged between Saudi teenagers' mobile phones contain pornography. Rather than sexual desire being quelled by religious doctrine (segregation, exposure) it has seemed to had the opposite effect. If one visits Oman, a neighboring country to Saudi one can still observe conservative attire but a society where interaction between men and women is more natural. I think it just illustrates a balance is needed in society, a women's voice must be heard, I recalled on our previous visit to Saudi at a conference in which women were in the same room. Our main speaker (Pakistani) remarked how the women were more keen and asking more questions and our German Colleague had the same remark when visiting Hospital Labs.
These general observations on Saudi are only my opinion (that's why we have blogs/journals) and not to generalize or denograte Saudi People as have met many hospitable and educated Saudis that have had positive impact on rephrensible/weaknesses in my character. If one visits Madinah and Makkah one should definitely read some simple basic Seerah (Life of the Prophet) to better appreciate the spiritual journey.
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